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Where to eat in Provence

25 Oct 2023

Journalist

Ah, sunny Provence... This gorgeous French region never ceases to fascinate art lovers, culture buffs and foodies alike. And with good reason: not only is the landscape breathtaking, but the whole area has a wealth of (very) good restaurants, where you can enjoy locally sourced and authentic food. If you care to avoid the tourist traps, here’s our tested and approved selection of excellent, reliable restaurants across Provence; from fine dining, to bistro, to pizza, there’s something to fit every mood and every budget.

La Source at Château la Gaude

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In this storybook manor, recently turned into a chic boutique hotel (and newly appointed Relais & Châteaux), food is at every corner. Although each of the hotel’s four restaurants burst with creativity, thanks to the Michelin-starred executive chef Matthieu Dupuis-Baumal, it is the brasserie-style restaurant La Source that is the locals’ favourite (and ours too). Its refined simplicity, the freshness and extra quality of its ingredients, and its wonderful outdoor terrace make it the perfect spot for lunch. Also, the manor is conveniently located next to the buzzing city of Aix-en-Provence (approximatively 10 minutes by car).

Our tip: try the new lunch menu, priced at €57 (starter, main course and dessert). Also, don’t forget to take a stroll in the Jardin à la Française with boxwood parterres, facing the manor’s 18th-century facade.

Les Vieilles Canailles

This tiny, oh so charming bistro located in the very heart of Aix-en-Provence’s historic city centre, is adored by its regular customer base – and understandably so. Beyond the extremely jovial, fun and convivial atmosphere, Les Vieilles Canailles serves a mix of French bistronomie and brasserie-style dishes, such as os à moelle and Paris-brest, and more authentic classics – with a twist. The value for money is superb: lunch is a starter, main course and dessert for €23. As for the wine, Les Vieilles Canailles has a carefully curated wine list, featuring mainly biodynamic and organic viticulture wines. This bistro is as authentic as it gets; expect a warm welcome upon arrival!

Our tip: don’t forget to book, as the restaurant quickly fills. Also, don’t be surprised if, by the end of the meal, customers talk to each other from table to table, in the typical conviviality of the South of France.

Hélène Darroze at Villa La Coste

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Located within the premises of Château La Coste – a large domain including a vineyard, a luxury hotel resort and an art centre – Hélène Darroze à Villa La Coste is a truly unforgettable experience. Prepare to be fully seduced by the famous French chef’s cuisine; her menu is delicate, clever and built around vegetables. All ingredients are locally sourced, including cheese and, of course, olive oil, which is directly produced at the estate. Weather-permitting, ask for a table outside, on the terrace overlooking rows of vines and the hotel’s stunning pool.

Our tip: the best table outside is the one right next to the olive trees, by the end of the terrace.

Pecora Negra

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In the picturesque small town of Menton, located right next to the Italian border, Argentinian-Italian chef Mauro Colagreco has a pizzeria, alongside the marina. Expect tasty pizza, divine tiramisu, well-sourced ingredients, and strong coffee at Pecora Negra. As for the setting, it’s rather simple and relaxed, with a terrace overlooking the charming marina.

Our tip: choose the pizza of the day. Also, if you want to try more of Colagreco’s desserts, visit his recently opened Mitron Bakery nearby, located just six minutes' walk away. The brioche and the lemon tart are both spectacular.

Château de Fonscolombe

If you’re looking for a stunning, romantic venue where dinner is served by candlelight, look no further. This historic, Provençal-style manor turned into a Relais & Châteaux hotel, is beyond gorgeous – perfect for a proposal. Food-wise, newly appointed Executive Chef Marc Fontanne signs a hugely inventive menu at La Table de l’Orangerie, full of finesse. Dishes are beautifully presented and served in sophisticated fine china. In the summertime, dinner is served outside, on the terrace overlooking the park. When it gets cooler, dinner takes place in the grand salons, underneath a period candelabra.

Our tip: choose the vegetarian menu, which is particularly creative. Also, before you arrive at the manor, stop by the peaceful St Christophe basin nearby.

Maison Arquier

This charming, authentic French auberge (guest house) was built many years ago, right next to the Roquefavour Aqueduct – a majestic bridge considered to be the world’s highest stone aqueduct. Overlooking the river Arc, the Maison Arquier’s terrace is the ideal place to cool off on hot summer evenings, while eating a charcuterie board, or a Niçoise salad, beef fillet and French fries, and a chocolate fondant of course.

Our tip: book well in advance, as the tables overlooking the river are quickly taken.

Lourmarin

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This stunning, authentic village close to the Lubéron has many a Café or brasserie, perfectly indicated for lunch or dinner. Try either L’Ormeau, Le Bouchon, Le Bistrot, or Café Gaby. The latter is quite a pleasant option thanks to its lively atmosphere, diligent service and great location in the village (right on the village’s square/ town plaza). Besides, what’s more typically French than dining right on a trottoir? Once seated, order an andouillette with French fries, a fresh beer, and you’re set!

Our tip: after lunch, don’t forget to visit Lourmarin’s historic castle.

Coquillade

French chef Pierre Marty, classically trained by none other than Alain Ducasse, has recently taken over the kitchen of Coquillade Provence, a resort surrounded by a vineyard, where nature takes centre stage. At Avelan (the resort’s fine-dining restaurant), the menu is impeccable and delivers perfectly executed French cuisine. Don’t miss the cheese selection: although not included in the menu, it’s absolutely worth the extra charge. In terms of wine, the sommelier has curated an extensive selection in his beautifully crafted ‘livre de cave.’

Our tip: if you want to find out more about wine, the hotel organises tours of its vineyard.

More ideas

Consider having dinner in Egualyères, another stunning, authentic Provençal village (notably loved by Hugh Grant, among others), where there are many superb restaurants. When in Marseille, aim for Alexandre Mazzia’s fine-dining restaurant AM and prepare to be blown away by the chef’s incredible cuisine, characterised by strong flavours and unforgettable inventiveness.

Anastasia Chelini

25 Oct 2023