Flame and spice set the rhythm at Kudu, the Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant where South African cooking is shaped through a contemporary lens. The room carries a lively hum; aromas drift from the kitchen, an early signal of the braai’s presence and the savoury arc of the meal to come. Under chef Patrick Williams, the menu is built for sharing, inviting a measured, unhurried progression. South African influences are clear in the grill-led dishes: smoke and ember add a dusky char that deepens flavour without overwhelming it. Homemade biltong underscores that lineage with concentrated beefiness and a firm, satisfying chew – an interlude that naturally calls for a sip before the next bite. Textures are thoughtfully tuned: crisp perimeters give way to yielding centres; silky sauces catch a kiss of the braai, bringing lift rather than weight. The opening act is a ritual worth repeating: Kudu bread with bacon butter. Still warm, the bronzed loaf tears with a gentle pull, its steam carrying a pork-rich perfume. The butter melts into the crumb, smoky and saline, turning a simple gesture into a tactile, memorable pivot for the meal. It’s an anchor – straightforward yet deft – that sets a standard for what follows. Clarity of flavour runs throughout. The kitchen leans into boldness with control, tempering sweetness with acidity, balancing heat with smoke and letting good ingredients speak in clean lines. Nothing feels embellished for effect; each element lands where it should. A single, focused statement defines the cellar: the wine list is fully South African. That concentration proves practical at the table, with bottles that track the spectrum from bright, refreshing whites to firmly structured reds. The team’s assured guidance makes pairing a precise exercise, aligning glass and plate so the braai’s char, the biltong’s intensity and the bread’s richness all find their match. Kudu stands at 7 Moxon Street in London's Marylebone. The address suits its quietly confident approach – energy in the room, smoke in the air and cooking that honours its roots while feeling exacting and current.
