Aptitude, sustainability, balance: the future of gastronomy at the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Forum

The Grand Finale of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition 2022-23, held in Milan, saw Tom Jenkins and Valeria Raimondi, Managing Editor and Editor-in-Chief of both Fine Dining Lovers and S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy, respectively, moderate 'The Forum'.

"The purpose of this forum is to stimulate interesting conversations about gastronomy, which will continue even after they have ended in this incredible space here in Milan," Raimondi began. "The theme of The Forum this year is Bring Your Future to the Table. What does that mean? It means that we are looking at the values that will define gastronomy in the years to come, with respect to the human side of the industry, from personal and financial sustainability to diversity, from equity to inclusion," added Jenkins.  

Here are the main talking points from the discussion held in front of the competing young chefs and select media. 

Virgilio Martínez: multiculturalism and transparency in the future of gastronomy  

On stage to open the Forum was Virgilio Martínez, visionary chef at Central in Lima, winner of The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2023. "A chef who has helped reconnect his country with indigenous food, while giving Peru a voice in the global culinary conversation," as the moderators put it. 

"Thank you for this opportunity to open the Forum on the future of gastronomy. I run Central, but I also manage Mater, a research laboratory based in Cusco: for us, geography and anthropology come before food," Martínez began. "I would like to talk about listening: listening to nature, but it is also important to consider listening as the key to approaching a dish and to everything," he said. Addressing the SPYCA finalists, the chef declared: "You have to compete with the person you were yesterday.

"Art, food and interpretation are the factors that characterise multiculturalism, the same that characterises this event, where there are chefs from 50 different countries. Multiculturalism is beautiful, and it is also complex. Transparency is important, in every sphere: from the farmer to the cook, it is needed at every step in our industry. People really appreciate truth and authenticity, remember that," Martínez concluded. 

Roundtable with the winners of previous SPYCA editions 

The Forum continued with a panel discussion in which all four previous SPYCA winners spoke, together on the same stage for the first time. They were Mark Moriarty, Mitch Lienhard, Yasuhiro Fujio and Jerome Ianmark Calayag, called to the stage by Raimondi. "For me it is a great pleasure to start this second part of the Forum by discussing what we call 'a legacy for the future', with four outstanding speakers," said the Editor-in-Chief.  

"They are the real focus of this talent scouting, the personification of the future of gastronomy: they will help us better understand where it is going, what it means to win SPYCA," she continued.

"The human side of the industry is at the centre of this Forum, both professionally and personally: how has your life changed since you won the competition?", Raimondi asked the young chefs. "I travelled a lot, attended many events and now have my own consultancy company. No doubt this event accelerated the stages," Lienhard replied. Moriarty then took the floor: "I worked in 12 cities in 12 months, I travelled all over the world, in the best restaurants in the world, I had the opportunity to do important internships."

"I discovered ingredients from all over the globe, very different from each other, it was also great to meet other chefs," Fujio said. "I travelled a lot, it was very important to have recognition, like winning second place at the Culinary World Cup 2022," said Calayag. 

“Do you think enough has been done to promote diversity, equity and inclusion in the sector? What more could be done?" was the question for Moriarty. "I believe that in every industry this issue should be addressed, our job is to create with food, but awareness and education should also be increased in the people who work with us. One idea is to close at the weekend, and allow kitchen workers to work Monday to Friday," he replied. 

"If you had to choose one word to highlight the most important value for you as a chef and for future chefs, what would it be?" asked Raimondi. For Calayag it was 'kindness'; Fujio quoted Massimo Bottura and talked about love for food, ingredients and people. Moriarty referred to graft, while Leinhard talked about respect for those around us, but also for oneself.  

Roundtable with the Grand Jury of SPYCA Competition 2022-23 

The second part of The Forum featured the chefs of the Grand Jury, who were called on stage for a new panel discussion. Jenkins invited Riccardo Camanini, Hélène Darroze, Vicky Lau, Pía León and Nancy Silverton to the stage. "Now, for the final part of this forum, I am delighted to say that we have with us the Grand Jury, the world-class chefs who judge the spectacular dishes created by the global finalists of this competition," said Jenkins. 

"As you know, today in this forum we are discussing the human side of the industry and the values that will define this aspect of gastronomy in the future. But how do you define and measure excellence when it comes to people management? And I am interested in real-life examples from your restaurants," Jenkins began. "I think empathy is very important in staff management: I also teach my team to be problem solvers," replied Lau. "We can measure this all the time with my people: I give them good challenges, it is important to stay sustainable and give real opportunities to achieve challenging goals by sharing our knowledge," was Camanini's response. 

The future of gastronomy 

Referring to the recent survey launched by S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy, Jenkins asked jurors "What social welfare measures do you currently provide or intend to provide in your restaurant?” "I organise small meetings with the staff, set rules and try to give them time outside the restaurant. In addition, I have created a dedicated staff room where staff can relax," Darroze replied. Silverton, on the other hand, spoke about the 'restaurant culture' she promotes, based on aspects such as a healthy approach or the environment. "Today everyone has a voice in the restaurant community," she pointed out, with an effective claim "Old ways are not the right ways". Finally, León concluded: 'I think it is important to consider communication with the team: we have to listen, because I think each person is a unique individual and as such has their own aspirations." 

The Jury members were then asked what inspired them about today's young chefs. Silverton began by saying "Without a doubt they inspire me. When I started there were no mentor figures, young chefs today have the opportunity to meet chefs from all over the world and get inspired, it's a great energy." Darroze, on the other hand, responded: "The new generation is very sensitive to sustainability. Young people are very connected to the world, they really have a real story to tell." Camanini then added: "Nowadays, compared to my generation, young people have the opportunity to listen to chefs talk, we are more accountable for their future."  

Questions from the audience to the Grand Jury  

There was no shortage of questions from the audience, for example about the use of vegetables in contemporary fine dining. "I think that today a luxury product might be a carrot or fennel: in the past it was pigeon; I need to 'listen' to vegetables, to practice with them, to approach them in a different way in order to make the most of them," replied Camanini.  

What do you think of the somewhat harsh image of kitchens created by TV?  

"I think we should change economic values into human values: we have to be aware that we are only a small part of the system and together we can change it," Camanini replied. "It is true that there is a lot of sacrifice in the kitchen, but now we want to promote change: it is up to us," added León.  

Today there are many women in the SPYCA Grand Jury, but that is not true of the industry as a whole: what do you think about that? 

"There are women in the kitchen, but not enough. Certainly, when you work in the industry, I think the main obstacle is in women's heads," suggested Darroze.   

"A woman has a natural femininity in her approach to dishes, there is something instinctive in a woman to create, and you find that in food as well. Don't hate me for this opinion," Silverton replied. "I think we cook more instinctively than men," Darroze added.  

When you are looking for new staff, do you actively seek out women? 

"I try to analyse attitudes, regardless of whether it is a man or a woman," Leon replied. "I feel the kitchen is kinder and more elegant when we have a balance of male and female members," remarked Camanini. "I don't look at gender, but personality," concluded Lau. With these considerations, the curtain fell on The Forum of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition 2022-23. Who will win the title of best young chef in the world? Look out for the announcement tomorrow evening.